Córdoba's wines, in their own right
Montilla-Moriles is the wine appellation of Córdoba province, centred on the towns of Montilla and Moriles. These wines share DNA with sherry — similar styles, similar methods — but they are not the same thing. The key difference: the Pedro Ximénez grape grown here reaches high enough natural sugar levels that the wines don't need alcohol fortification. The fino comes in at 15–17% vol. on its own.
For centuries, Montilla wine was exported to England under the name "sherry," which created lasting confusion. The Denominación de Origen, established in 1945, drew the boundary and gave the region its own identity.
The styles
The appellation covers a wide range, all built primarily from Pedro Ximénez:
- Fino: dry, pale, with a saline edge — the right match for tapas like salmorejo or berenjenas con miel, and the base spirit in a rebujito
- Amontillado: aged under flor then oxidatively, amber with hazelnut notes — good with flamenquín or cured meats
- Oloroso: full-bodied and nutty, no flor ageing — fits well alongside rabo de toro
- Palo Cortado: a rare style that starts as fino and crosses into oloroso territory
- Pedro Ximénez: the sweet wine — raisined grapes, very dark, thick — a natural companion for mazapán or pastel cordobés
What makes the terroir distinct
The climate is extreme continental: hot, dry summers with temperatures regularly above 40°C. The soils are albariza — white limestone that reflects heat and retains winter moisture. These conditions push the grapes to exceptional ripeness without irrigation. It's the same soil type found in Jerez, and it explains the structural similarities between the two wine regions.
Where to drink them in Córdoba
Córdoba's tabernas are the natural habitat for these wines. Bodegas Campos, Taberna Salinas, and Casa Pepe de la Judería keep solid cellars. Taberna El Número 10 runs commented Montilla-Moriles tastings (Michelin selection).
For the full experience, a tasting at the Montilla-Moriles bodegas 40 km from Córdoba puts you in the historic cellars of Alvear (founded 1729), Pérez Barquero, or Toro Albalá with a guide. The Córdoba gastronomic tour pairs fino, amontillado, and Pedro Ximénez with Córdoba dishes inside century-old tabernas.
Planning a wine day trip
The wine route guide covers the Montilla-Moriles region in detail — which bodegas to visit, itinerary options, and practical advice for a day out from the city.