A palace turned restaurant
Bodegas Campos has occupied a former aristocratic palace since 1908. A sequence of patios unfolds through the building — climbing plants, stone fountains. The vaulted rooms house enormous oak barrels where the house Montilla-Moriles matures. King Juan Carlos I, writer Julio Cortázar, and a generation of notable visitors have eaten here; their photographs cover the walls.
The dishes that built the reputation
The rabo de toro has been on the menu for over a century. Oxtail simmering until the meat gives way under a fork, the sauce concentrated down from hours of cooking. The salmorejo is one of the finer traditional versions in the city — thick, creamy, topped with Iberian ham and hard-boiled egg, made with ripe Andalusian tomatoes. The golden crispy flamenquín — breaded pork stuffed with serrano ham — is another fixture. The salt cod and orange salad surprises with its freshness, blending local citrus and salted fish in a combination that is characteristically Andalusian. The house tortilla de patatas is creamy and generous.
The wines
The cellars produce their own Montilla-Moriles wines. A dry chilled fino as an aperitif, a more complex amontillado with the main course, a syrupy Pedro Ximénez alongside dessert. The sommelier knows every barrel.
For the wider wine region, see the Montilla-Moriles wine route guide. Bodegas Campos also features in the Córdoba gastronomic tour.
Practical details
Book a few days ahead, especially at weekends. Budget €25–40 with wine. Lunch is relaxed; dinner slightly dressier. Ask for a patio table when the weather holds.
