When summer temperatures top 40°C in Córdoba, the city empties out toward water. The Sierra Morena and surrounding countryside have some genuinely good swimming spots — natural pools, reservoir beaches and river coves that most tourists never find.
Natural pools in the Sierra Morena
The Guadiato and Guadalmellato rivers carve pools through the wooded valleys north of Córdoba. The water comes from mountain springs and stays refreshingly cold even in August — usually 18–22°C, which feels like a shock after the city heat.
El Moro (near Hornachuelos) is one of the best-known spots, with several natural rock pools shaped by erosion. Free access. Arrive early at weekends — locals know this one.
La Breña has wathing spots staggered along a waterfall system. The approach walk takes 30–45 minutes, which filters out some of the crowds and rewards you with relative peace.
Reservoirs with supervised beaches
The province's embalses offer a more managed experience:
Embalse de San Rafael de Navallana: The closest to Córdoba (40 km). In July–August there are lifeguards, a sandy beach and a seasonal bar. Water runs warmer than the mountain rivers — around 24–26°C. Ideal for families. Free parking.
Embalse del Guadalmellato: Wilder and less busy. Several quiet coves for swimming without amenities. Bring a picnic.
Embalse de la Breña: Surrounded by forest with an exceptional setting. Some spots are swimmable, though less managed than San Rafael. The mountain access road is worth the drive.
River beaches
Playa del Arenosillo (Hornachuelos): A managed river beach on the Guadalquivir, with calm shallow water good for children. Picnic tables and shaded areas available.
Las Ermitas: Along the hermitage road, several discreet access points lead to natural pools for a post-hike dip. Look for parked cars — a reliable sign of a good spot.
Municipal pools in Córdoba
No car? The city has affordable options:
Piscina Municipal de Fuensanta: The largest, with Olympic pools, children's paddling areas and lawns. Open June–September, 11 am–8 pm. Very affordable (€2–4).
Piscina de Fontanar: More family-oriented and less crowded. Two pools and a children's zone. A genuine local atmosphere.
Safety and practical notes
Safety: Natural pools have no lifeguards. Don't overestimate your abilities, especially after rain when currents can strengthen. Children need close supervision. Don't dive into unknown pools — depth is deceptive.
When to go: June to September. Weekdays or early mornings at weekends to avoid crowds. Reservoir water (26°C) is warmer than mountain rivers (18–20°C) in July–August.
Getting there: A car is essential for natural sites and reservoirs. GPS can be unreliable in the mountains — download offline maps before you go. Most tracks are unpaved but passable in a standard car.
What to bring: Swimwear, towels, SPF 50+ sunscreen, at least 1.5 litres of water per person, snacks, water shoes for rocky spots, a waterproof bag for your phone.
Environmental responsibility: Pack out all rubbish, no soap or shampoo in the water, respect the vegetation. Fire is strictly prohibited in summer — wildfire risk is extremely high.
Best options by situation
With young children: Embalse de San Rafael (supervised, sandy beach, shallow) or Córdoba's municipal pools
Nature and quiet: Guadiato natural pools (El Moro, La Breña) on a weekday
No car: Municipal pools in Fuensanta or Fontanar
Maximum cold water: Sierra Morena mountain rivers (18–20°C even in August)
Adventure: Off-map spots along mountain roads — watch for parked cars
Alternatives and combinations
For a supervised experience with young children, the AquaSierra water park in Villafranca is 15 minutes from Córdoba with lifeguards and proper facilities.
After a day of outdoor swimming, Hammam Al Ándalus offers a different kind of water experience — the traditional Arab baths in a 9th-century building, calm and completely different.
The nature-and-culture combination works well: morning at Medina Azahara, then a swim at Embalse de San Rafael on the way back.
More advice on surviving Córdoba in summer is in our complete summer guide.
