Five days of flowers, sevillanas and free entry

San Basilio is the neighbourhood most people think of first, and with reason. Its steep cobblestone streets and whitewashed walls were made for this festival. The crosses here tend to be among the most elaborately decorated in the competition, and the bars that open alongside them serve proper tapas, not tourist-facing snacks. Sevillanas spill out of doorways from early evening.

Best time: From 19:00 for music and dancing · Tip: The cobblestones are uneven and the streets slope: wear shoes with grip. Music is at 50% volume 16:00–19:00 (neighbour quiet period); arrive after 19:00 when full music resumes and the bars fill.

San Andrés has a slightly quieter character than San Basilio: less steep, easier to walk, and good for seeing the decoration up close without jostling through crowds. Visit here during the day to examine the flowers and construction properly, then head south to San Basilio for the evening atmosphere.

Best time: Daytime for decoration; evening for atmosphere · Tip: Look at the carnation work up close: the artistry involved in these arrangements is genuinely impressive and easier to appreciate here than in busier spots.

Santa Marina is one of Córdoba's most traditional neighbourhoods, home to the Palacio de Viana and its twelve courtyards. During Cruces de Mayo it comes into its own: the crosses are placed in plazas and courtyards that already have character, and the community feel is genuine. It's also the neighbourhood that connects directly to the May Patio Festival, which follows the week after.

Best time: Evening · Tip: Cross visits pair naturally with a walk around the neighbourhood. The Palacio de Viana is close; worth doing on the same afternoon.

Less visited than San Basilio and Santa Marina, San Agustín rewards the detour. The crosses are set against quieter streets, the bar prices tend to be lower, and you're less likely to be sharing a narrow passage with fifteen other visitors at once. A good option if you want the festival experience without the bottlenecks.

Best time: Evening · Tip: Combine with Santa Marina for a longer northern neighbourhoods loop; allow 2 to 3 hours.

The central plazas and main streets host some of the official competition crosses: more polish, more crowds, and the most photographed installations. Good for seeing what the competition format produces at its most ambitious. Easy to reach from anywhere in the city.

Best time: Any time; evening for full experience · Tip: Come during the day if you want photographs without people in every shot. Evening here gets busy: the central location draws the largest crowds.