Córdoba's festive season runs from 1 December to early January under the 'Córdoba es Navidad' programme. It's not a tourist production — it's how the city actually marks the end of the year.
What actually happens
The Plaza de las Tendillas hosts the Christmas market with more than 20 artisan stalls — decorations, turrones (Spanish nougat), polvorones (Andalusian shortbread) and mantecados from Estepa. The historic centre feels genuinely festive, not just lit up.
Christmas illuminations run from 1 December across the historic centre. The Judería does particularly well — those narrow medieval streets and the light work well together.
The more interesting seasonal tradition is the zambomba. These are intimate flamenco evenings built around a traditional clay friction drum. Spontaneous gatherings in the city's flamenco peñas, where locals and visitors share song, dance and tapas. Ask at the tourist office for dates and venues — they're not widely advertised.
Highlights of the season
New Year's Eve: Córdoba's version of midnight involves the whole city gathering on the Plaza de las Tendillas to eat twelve grapes at the stroke of midnight — one per bell-toll, each grape supposedly bringing luck for one month of the new year. More than 20,000 people turn up. Arrive early if you want a spot near the centre.
5 January: The Three Kings Parade winds through the city streets with decorated floats and thousands of sweets thrown into the crowd. The Three Kings pass in front of the illuminated Mezquita — one of those accidental images that sum up Córdoba.
Practical information
Market open 10:00 am – 10:00 pm (variable hours on public holidays). Illuminations switch on from 6:30 pm. The best time to be in the market is weekends from late afternoon — that's when the atmosphere peaks. Free entry for everything.
